At first, your floor looks good, and then six months later, you start to see the coating peeling at the forklift lanes in your warehouse.

A steel handrail is “painted,” but soon the rust comes roaring back around the welds after one good rainy season. A commercial kitchen wall becomes stained by chemicals that wipe straight through the finish.

I’ve observed all three instances occur, which usually happen because the coating system didn’t fit the job or because prep time was skimped.

Today, we crack the code on what Jotun epoxy paint really is, where it wins, and how to choose—and apply—a system that won't get crushed.

What is Jotun Epoxy Paint (and what’s different about it)?

The vast majority of “normal paint” dries via evaporation. Epoxy Paint is different.

Epoxy basics: it’s a two-part system—resin + hardener—that chemically cures into a rigid, rock-hard film. That chemical cure is why epoxy is used when acrylic or alkyd doesn’t stand up to abrasion, chemicals, or corrosion.

Where epoxy glimmers: steel buildings, concrete floors, wash-down facilities, and anywhere exposed to wear, impact, or chemical contact.

Mini takeaway: If you need abrasion + chemical resistance, epoxy beats acrylic/alkyd. And when conditions are brutal (salt air, chemicals, forklifts), Jotun-grade systems often earn the extra cost by lasting longer and failing less often.

Best Uses for Jotun Epoxy Paint (Map of Where It Can Be Used)

Indoor floors: sealed concrete in workshops, warehouses, garages, plant rooms, back-of-house corridors (carts + forklifts).

Steel shapes: beams, handrails, platforms, skids—especially in industrial/coastal areas with high corrosion.

Tanks & pipelines: where water/chemicals exist (system selection matters—“epoxy” is not “any epoxy”).

Marine/coastal: salt + humidity = high corrosion pressure, epoxy primers/mastics often specified.

Industrial walls & wash-down areas: factories, commercial kitchens, service hallways where cleaning solvents destroy standard coatings.

Not ideal (unless topcoated): constant UV outdoors—many epoxies chalk/yellow, so use a UV-stable topcoat (often polyurethane).

How to Select the Correct Jotun Epoxy System (Quick Checklist)

Don’t lead with the product name—start with conditions:

• Substrate: concrete or steel?

• Exposure: chemicals, abrasion, immersion, moisture, heat?

• Appearance: gloss/matt, anti-slip, color fastness?

• Shutdown window: tools, ventilation, cure time?

• Compatibility: primer, body coats, and topcoat are designed to work together.

Plain-English decision guide:

• Severely corroded steel: epoxy primer/epoxy mastic + high-build epoxy (barrier thickness).

• Forklift floors: floor epoxy system for abrasion/impact + polyurethane topcoat for stain resistance/easier cleaning.

• UV areas: epoxy for build + UV-resistant topcoat for color/gloss retention.

Surface Prep (The #1 Reason Why Epoxy Does Not Stick)

Concrete prep

1. Moisture test (plastic sheet 24h): condensation/darkening = moisture movement → blister/adhesion risk.

2. Remove contaminants: oil/grease/old sealers kill adhesion—degrease + rinse.

3. Profile the surface: grind/shot blast for the mechanical key.

4. Repair cracks/pits with epoxy filler; fully cure before coating.

Steel prep

1. Remove rust/scale: mechanical or abrasive blast if possible.

2. Degrease: especially around handling marks/weld zones.

3. Prime quickly: bare steel flash rusts fast in humidity.

Pro tip: Epoxy bonds to properly profiled surfaces—not shiny ones.

Pot Life and Mixing: Do Not Waste the Kit

• Measure exactly (don’t eyeball Part A/B).

• Mix long enough; scrape sides/bottom.

• Respect induction time (if required).

• Pot life is real—heat shortens it fast.

• Batch smart: small mixes if you’re not fast yet.

Application Method for an Ideal Finish

Typical coat plan: Primer (if needed) → Base coat 1 → Base coat 2 → Topcoat (UV/extra durability)

Technique tips:

• Keep a wet edge to avoid lines.

• Don’t over-thin (kills film build/chemical resistance).

• Hit details: corners, joints, welds, anchor points.

• Anti-slip: broadcast aggregate into wet coat, then seal with another coat.

Drying, Recoat Window & Full Cure (Most Rush This)

• Dry to the touch ≠ , strong film

• Recoat-able = best bond window

• Full cure = maximum chemical resistance/hardness

Plan return-to-service realistically: foot traffic → light carts → forklifts after full cure.

Issues & Solutions (Fast Troubleshooting)

• Bubbling/blistering → moisture/outgassing → test moisture, prime right, coat when cooler

• Fish-eyes → silicone/oil contamination → degrease, replace contaminated rollers

• Soft/sticky cure → wrong mix ratio/cold temps → correct ratio, warm space

• Peeling at edges → poor profile → grind/re-profile, detail edges

Price, Coverage & Value: Is It Worth It?

Real cost depends on:

• Prep (grinding/blasting, repairs, cleaning)

• Total system thickness (thin fails faster)

• Number of coats (primer + 2 coats + topcoat)

• Labour + shutdown time

• UV topcoat needs

Coverage is not one number—rough concrete, higher build, waste, and anti-slip reduce it.

Final Checklist (Copy/Paste Friendly)

• Surface clean, dry, properly profiled

• Correct primer/system for concrete or steel

• Accurate mix ratio + correct mixing time (+ induction if needed)

• Pot life followed

• Correct coat thickness applied

• Recoat windows respected

• Full cure before heavy service

5 FAQs

1. How does Jotun epoxy compare with typical epoxy?

2. Often it’s sold/spec’d as a full protective system for industrial use—not just “any” two-part epoxy.

3. Which epoxy primer is best for steel?

4. Commonly, an epoxy primer/epoxy mastic class is used for industrial steel, especially where corrosion risk is high, or prep is difficult.

5. Is epoxy for concrete floors resilient to forklifts?

6. Yes—if the system is chosen for abrasion/impact and applied at the correct thickness over properly prepared concrete.

7. How can coverage per litre be calculated?

8. Start with a datasheet theoretical spreading rate, then reduce for roughness, heavier thickness, anti-slip, and waste.

9. Do I need a topcoat on epoxy?

10. If there’s sunlight or you need better color/gloss retention, a UV-stable topcoat (often polyurethane) is usually used.